Trimming mechanism for sewing-machines.



G. SCOTT.

TRIMMING MBGHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED 00T.27,19os.

1,1 17,607. Patented NOV.1'7,1914.

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G. SCOTT.

TRIMMING MBCHANISM Foa SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED 001227, 1906.

Patented N 0V. 1'7, 1914.

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G. SCOTT.

TRIMMING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES.

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G. SCOTT.

TMMMING MBCHANISM Fon SEWING MAGHLNES.

APPMUATION FILED 001227, 1906.

1,117,607. Patented Nov. 17, 1914.

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GEORGE SCOTT, OIF AMSTERDAM, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO THE UNION `SPECIALyINIACIEIIII'E COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION ILLINOIS.

TRIMMING MECHANISM :FOR`SEIN'IN(r-MACHINES.` g

TOaZZ'w/wm/it mag/concern:

Ee it known that I, GEORGE Soo'rr. a citizen of theUnitcd States,residing at Amsterdam, in the county of Montgomery, State ot' New York,vhave invented certain new and useful Improvements in rlrinuningMechanism for Sewing-Machines. of which the following is'a description,reference bei ing had to the accompanying drawing and to the letters andfigures` of reference marked thereon.

My invention relates to certain new and useful improvements in cuttingmechanisms ior trimming machines, and while as to some of its featuresit may be used for various purposes. it is more particularly adapted tomachines for cutting or trimming ofi' one or more ot a plurality ofsuperdmposed layers ot' Vfabric prior to the stitching operation.vguiding or ldetlecting one of the cutting edges so that it will not bestitched, and securing by stitching the undetlected edge ofthe layer `orlayers that havenot been cut.

VIn this type of machine at present the cutting operation begins as soonas the fabric .operated upon reaches `the cutting position. 'In certainclasses vot' work, it is very desirous to control this cutting operationso that a portion of the tabricfmay be first stitched before the cuttingoperation begins. ["or example, in necking underweanwvhen the cuttingoperation begins as soon as the t'old reaches the cutting blade. thefinished product is liable to give away at the top of the neck, wheresaid cutting operation began. By controlling this cutting operationsothut the point where the cutting blade enters the fabric is .slightly*beyond the edge ol the told. and the cutting operation ceases beforethe edge ol' tho 'fold is reached ou the. otherside .of the neckportion, the resulting product` is what may be termed a tu med-over.neck lwhich has two plies oi t'abricz'at the top ot' the neck instead ofone. thus giving `greater strength and durabilitv to-snid product.

An object ot my invention is tht-irelore. to provide meanst'orcontrolling thc cutting or trimming mechanism whereby the saine at thewill of the Operator may `be thrown into or out oi effective.operatmn.iy t it further Lcbject of, my lnventionisi to Speccation of LettersPatent.

Patented Nov. 17, 19ML..

Application filed October 27, 1906. Serial No. 340,915.

provide a cutting or trimming mechanism which includes a separating andsevering blade with controlling mechanism whereby the working positionsof said blade may be changed at the will of the operator and the cuttingoperation rendered ineffective.

These und other objects of my invention will in )art be obvious und willin part be more fu ly hereinafter explained.

My invention consists in the novel parts improvements and arrangementsherein shown and described.

In the accompanying drawings, I have` illustrated rone embodiment of myinvention, the same serving in connection Withthe description herein toillustrate the 'prin-l ciples thereof. i

Figure 1 is a sectional view through the forward end ot a sewing machineembodying my invention, showing the feedbar and presser foot in sideelevation, and the cut-v ting blade in operative relation to the fabric,the presser t'oot being slightly raised in order to more clearlylshowsaid .cutting blade. Fig. .2 is a view similar to Fig. l with thecutting blade lowered so that its cutting operation is ineffective, thestationary cutter blade being omitted `from this view. Fig. 8 is a topplan view of the forward end of a machine embodying my invention.I thework plate being removed to more clearly show the cutting mechanism.Fig. 4 is a detail view partly in section of the illustrated means forraising or lowering the operative position of the cutter. Fie'. 5 is adetail perspective view of the cutting or trimming meclninisnnthcoperating means 'for throwing the cutter into and out ot eii'ectiveoperation, .being shown detached. Fie'. is a detail view showing thepresser foot in section and the relation of the cutting ,blade to thelayers offabric as said cutting bladey is thrown into operation and'pierces the lower layer of 4fabric in orderl to separate the two layersand cut the lower one. Fig. 7 is a view similar to Fig. 6 showing thecutter blade between the layers of fabric.- Fig. 8 is a bottomperspective view of a fabric stitched upon my machine and showing thepoints at which the trimming or-cutting begins and ceases.`

Fig: 9;is a `bottom perspective` view of Inyi105 a detail vieu' showingthe manner of locking thev cutting blade mechanism in its raised'orlowered position.

Referring to the particular embodiment of the invention illustrated byWay of example inl theaccompanying drawings the same will be seen tocomprise a bed plate 1 from which rises a bracket 2, pivotallysupporting a looper carrier 3, having a 'looper i of theordinary.construction. Said looper receives its oscillations -in theusual manner from a link 5. Cooperating with said looperto form stitchesis the well known needle mechanism, the needle of which is indicated by(i. This stitch forming mechanism may be the ordinary two needlemechanism having a single loopcr coperating therewith to form crossstitches or of any other form which includes the necessary elements forsecuring a cut-edge to a body fabric.

The feed dog 7 is carried by a feed bar 8 pivoted to an oscillatingframe 9 which is given its oscillations in order to move the feed dogback and forward in the. usual manner by a link 90 operated from themain shaft. Said feed bar carries a depending bracket 10 which embracesan eccentric 11, carried bythe main shaft 12 and from said eccentricsaid feed dog is given its rising and falling movements.

My cutting mechanism in the present embodiment of myinvcntion comprisesa. stationaryv cutting blade 13 which is adjustably secured to a bracket14, supported by the cloth plate of the machine. The screw l5 l.servesto secure said stationary cutter its.

blade inl its proper position relative to the movable cutter. As shownin the drawings said stationary cutter extends to a point substantiallyflush with the top surface of the cloth plate. Cooperating with saidstationary cutter is the movable cutter 1G which is adjustably securedto a bar 18, by means y of a screw 19 passing through a slot 2O in theshank ofsaid cutter. Said bar 18 is pivoted at its rear end to a bellcrank lever 21 by a pivot bolt 4:2. Said bell crank lever is pivoted tothe bed plate 1, and has its arm 22 pivotally connected to a link 23which in turn embraces an eccentric 24 on the main shaft 12. lt Will benoted that as the main shaft rotates, the bell crank lever 21, will beoscillated, thus giving to the movable cutter a horizontal backward andforward movement. The timing of the cccentric 24 relative to the meansfor moving the feed dog back and forward is such'that the cutter movesforward. as the feed dog moves backward/1.1. Said cutter 16 isreciprocated across the plane of the work sup- 'f port and the face ofthe stationary cutter 13 by the eccentric l1, which gives the rising andfalling movement to the feed dog. The-'cutter barf18 is providedlwithade-Y lated. Said arm 30 has an enlarged end at its point of connectionwith theshaft` 29 and said enlarged end is provided with recesses 31, 3233. The bearing at the lower end from the arm 25, has av recess Sel inwhich slides a` pin carrying a detent 36. 'A spring 37 tends normally toforce the pin from the recess.v The position of the arm 30 relative 4tothe recess 341 in the bearing is such that the pin las it is pushedforward by the spring causes the detent` to register with one or theother of the recessesl, 32, 33. The `purpose of the pin 35 and thedetent 36 is to prevent the arm 30 from being accidentally moved as itre-v quires some pressure on the arm in order to crowd the pin 35 backinto its recess, to allow the detent 36 to slide from one re-l cess toanother in the arm 30. I

lt will be obvious that as the arm 30 is shifted from the position shownin Fig. 1 to that shown in Fig. 2 that the cutter bar 18 will be loweredso that the cutter 16, although reciprocated up and down by theeccentric 11` does not move. above the cloth plate and consequently theoperative end of the cutter is ineffective to cut the fabric passingthrough the machine. While the u-'orking or operative position -of thecutter has been shifted bv the movement of the arm 30 in the presentembodiment of my invention, the cutter still continues to reciprocateand move backward and forward. Cooperating with the feed dog 7 andcutting members of my machine is a presser foot which has a recess 35extending a greater portion of the length of the presser foot. Mymovable cutter member is preferably provided with a sharp piercing'pointso that if a folded fabric be fed to my machine, said piercing pointwould penetrate the fold. rlhe position of the movable cutter memberwhen in operative relation to the fabric is such that the sharppenetrating member will enter between two layers of fabric, fed to saidcutting mechanism, lifting the upper layer from the lower layer andoperate to sever said lower layer. .it will be noted that the cuttingnmechanism is located in front of the stitching mechanism and saidcutting mechanism is also preferably so located relative to thestitching mechanismthat one of the wcut edges may be deflected away fromthe stitching mechanism, while the other is secured by the stitchingmechanism to the uncut layer. Tt is often desired in machines of thistype, to so control the cutting mechanism that the cutting operation maybe begun or terminated at the will of the operator. For example, whennecking underwear, it may be desired to begin the cutting operation at aslight distance from the edge of the fold, in order that the finishedproduct will be strengthened by having two plies of the fabric at thetop of the neck. This produces` what is termed a turned-over neck. Inorderto secure this operation upon my machine. all that is necessary isto lower the arm 30 to the' position shown in Fig. i2 and as the foldededge is fed to the stitching mechanism tbe cutter is in such position asto be ineffective to cut the fabric. After a certain portion oi' saidfabric. has been stitched, the operator ma)l without stopping themachine, raise the arm 30 to the position shown in Fig. l. This movementof the arm 30 changes the relative position of the pin 26 to the arm 25,and thus causes the movable cutter to reciprocate across the plane ofmovement of the lower layer of fabric. -is the arm 30 is raised and thecutting member 16 ifs/moved up against the two layers of materialpassing through the machine, this movement of the cutting member intooperative cutting position lifts the material at the point of engagementby said cutting member, and as the presser foot holds the material onthe work support in front of said cutting member, said material is thuspositioned at an inclination to the line oi forward movement ol saidcutting member.

It will benoted that the t'ccd dog extends to a position in advance ofthe cutting member and the simultaneous lifting of the material, wherebythe same is inclined to the work support, the forward movement of thecutter and the movement of the feed operate to cause the cutting memberto penetrate the lower layer of the material, or if only one layer isbeing cut to penetrate said layer. The extent of movement of the cuttingmember is so adjusted that after the first layer is penetrated, thepoint of the cutter enters between the lawers of material, separatessaid layers and operates to sever said lower layer. i

In order that' the cutter may readily7 pierce the material, I haveformed the movable member with a sharp piercing point, and the cuttingedgeextendsbackward from said point in a line substantially parallelwith the line of feed. The top portion oi the movable cutter issubstantially flat, so that the upper layer of material is properlysupported and lifted from the lower layer which is being severed.

lVhen it is desired to terminate the cutting operation, all that isnecessary is to lower the arm 30 which changes the working orreciiirocating position ot the cutter so that the cutting edge thereofdoes not cross the plane of the cloth plate.

,ly the above construction it will be seen that l .have provided atrimming device which may be so controlled that one of two superposedlayers of material passing through the machine may be pierced at a pointwithin its iree edge. Also by the above construction. the operation ofsevering' the fabric muy be rendered effective o1' inelt'ective withoutstopping the machine, at the will olf the operator.

l have shown in Fig. on a reduced scale, :i rolde-d 'fabric lf. stitchedand eut in the nninner above described. lt will be noted that thestitchingr begins at the edge of the l'old and the cutting operation ata point Z) iieyond the edge ol' the Fold and terminates at a.I point c ashort distance from the edge o'll the told on the opposite side of theneck.

While vI have described my machine as particularly adapted for neckingunderwear, it is obvious that the same is useful for a number -oi otherpurposes such as cutting and stitching oi hcms` cutting and stitching ofcollarettes, in appliqu work, in open work for cutting out certainportions when desired and in various other classes of work of a similarcharacter. either with or without stitchingl mechanism.

lt is obvious that many changes may be made in the detail 'lorm ofstructure illustrated b v me, without departing from the spirit oi' myinvention. lVhile I have shown an arm carrying an eccentric pin forthrowing the cutting mechanism into and out of operative position. it isapparent that any other torni oi inciifhanism for securing this resultmay be substituted for that herein disclosed. It is also obvious that adifierent arrangementand location of parts may be made without departingfrom the spirit of my invention so long as a cutting blade which has thecombined function ot' sepa' rating the layers ot fabric and severing oneof the same. is moved into and out of clicctive operative relation tothe fabric, so that the cutting of said layer may be controlled at willby the operator.

Having thus particularly described my invention, what I claim as new anddesire to secure by Letters Patent is:--

l. .X trimming machine including in combination a work support, feedingmechanism. a trimmingl blade having a forwardly projecting piercingpoint and a cutting edge in rear thereof, ineens lor moving said bladei'or severing the fabric, and means for movin said blade to withdraw thesame from the path oi the fabric whereby itscutting` action is renderedinel'ective and for causing' said trimming blade to engage the vfabricand bend the same whereby the piercing point may enter the fabric andthe cutting'action of the blade may be rendered effectivc.

A. trimming' machine including in combination a Work support, feedingmechanism, a trimn'iingg' blade located beneath the work support andprojecting above and overhanginp' the same, said overhanging portionhaving a cutting edge and a 'piercing point, and means whereby thepiercing point of the vtrimming' blade may be moved beneath the surfaceof the worksupport or raised abro-'J the same at will. for renderingsaid trimming' blade ineffective or effective.

A trimnmig machine including in combination a Work support, feedingmechanism. a movable trimming blade mounted beneath thc work support andprojecting above and overhanging the same, Said overhang'ing portionhaving a cutting' edge and a piercing point, means for moving said bladefor its cutting' action, and means 'whereby the piercing' point of thetrimming blade maj.' be moved beneath the surface of the work supportfor rendering said trimming blade ineffective and may be raised abovetluwork support for engaging the under fare of the fabric, bending thesame, whereby the piercing point may enter the fabric and the cuttingaction of said blade be. rendered effective. and a. presser foot abovethe u'orl: support for engaging the upper faceof the fabric adjacent thetrimming blade for holding the fabric so as to cause the piercing pointto enter the same.

4. A sewing machine including in combination a work support. stitchforming mechanism. feeding mechanism, and a trimming mechanism. saidtrimming mechanism including a trimming blade mounted beneath the ivorl:supj'vcn-t and projecting above and werhangingF the work support. saidprojecting portion of the trimmer blade having a piercing peint and acutting edge in rear thereof,`sai 'l blade being' located in advance ofthe stitching mechanism, means for reciprocating,r the trinuning blade,and means for moving the j'iiercing point of the trimminaf blade beneaththe surface of the work support for wandering the same ineffective and.for raising the piercing point above the Work support for causing' thesame to engage the under face of the fabric and penetrate the sameu'herebv the trinnning blade majY be rendered effective.

A sewing machine including in combination a work support, stitch formingmechanism, feeding mechanism. and a trimming mechanism, said trimmingmechanism including a trimming blade mounted beneath the Work supportand projecting above'and overhanging the Work support, said projectingportion of the trimming blade having a Minco? piercing point and acutting edge in'rear thereof, said blade being located in advance of thestitching mechanism, means for reciprocating the trimming blade, meansfor moving the piercing point of the trimming blade beneath the surfaceof the ,Work support for rendering the same ineffective' and for raisingthev piercing point above the Work support for causing the same toengage the under face of the fabric and penetrate the same whereby thetrimming blade may be rendered effective, and a presser foot extendingto' a point in adi-'ance of the trimming blade and having a groove inits under face to recel .e the trimming blade. L

6. A- sewing machine including in combination a. work support,- stitchforming mechanism, feeding mechanism, and a trim-l ming mechanism, saidtrimming mechanism including a stationary trimming'blade having itsupper face substantialliY Hush Withv the upper face of the Work support,a movable trimming blade located beneath the Work support and having ashank projecting above the u'ork support, an overhanging portion carriedby said shank, said overhanging portion having a piercing point, and acutting er ge adapted to coperz-ite with the stationary trimming blade,means for reciprocating said movable trimming blade, and

means whereby said lmovable trimming blade may be depressed to carry thepiercing point thereof beneath the plane of the Work support or raisedto lift the piercing point above the plane of the Work-support at thewill of the operator.

7. A sewing machine including in combination a Wol-l: support, stitchforming mechanism, feeding mechanism, and a trimming mechanism, saidtrimminfY mechanism including a stationarv trimming blade having itsupper face substantially i'iush 'with the upper face of the worksupport, a movable trimming blade located beneath the Work support andhai-'ing a kshank projecting above the work support, an overhangingportion carried by said shank, said overhanging portion having -a'piercing point. and a cutting edge adapted to cooperate with thestationary trimming blade, means for reciprocating said movabletrimming' blade, and means .whereby said movable trimming blade may bedepressed to carry the piercing,r point thereof beneath the plane of thework, lsupport or raised to lift the piercing point above the plane ofthe Work support at thc will of the operator and without stopping thestitching mechanism.

8. A. sewing machine including in combination a 'work support, stitchforming mechanism, feeding mechanism, and a trimming mechanism, saidtrimming mechanism including a stationary trimming blade having itsupper face substantially Hush with the upper face of the Work support, amovable trimming blade located beneath the work support and having ashank projecting above the work support, 4an overhanging portion carriedby said shank, said overhanging portion having a piercing point, and acutting edge adapted to cooperate with the stationary trimming blade,means for reciprocating said movable trimming blade., and means wherebysaid movable trimming blade may be depressed to carry the piercing pointthereof beneath the plane of the work support or raised to lift thepiercing point above the plane of the work support at the will of theoperator, and a presser foot for engaging the fabric, said pressei" footextending to a point in advance of the movable trimming blade and havinga groove in its under face to receive said movable trimming blade.

9. A sewing machine including in combination a work support, stitchforming mechanism, feeding mechanism and a trimming mechanism, saidtrimming mechanism inclu-ding a stationary trimming blade` a movabletrimming blade, including a shank extending across a horizontal planecontaining the cutting edge of the stationary trimming blade, said shankhaving an overhanging portion and a piercing point at the forward endthereof` means for reciprocating said movable blade. and means forgiving said stationary trimming blade and said movable trimming blade arelative movement for positioning the point of the movable trimmingblade so that during the reciprocations of the movable trimming bladethere will be no space betweenthe blades and the cutting action of thetrimming mechanism may be rendered ineffective and means for restoringsaid trimming blades to their normal cutting position.

10. A sewing machine including in combination a work support, stitchforming mechanism, feeding mechanism and a trimming mechanism, saidtrimming mechanism including a trimming blade mounted bcneath the worksupport and projecting above and overhanging4 the work support, saidprojecting portion of the trimming blade having a piercing point and acutting edge in rear thereof, said blade being located in advance of thestitching mechanism` means for reciprocating said trimming blade, meansfor moving the piercing point of the trimming blade beneath the surfaceof the work support and for raising the piercing point above the surfaceof the work support at will for rendering said trimming mechanismineffective or eli'ective. said feeding mechanism including a feed doghaving feeding teeth both in front and in rear of the piercing point.

1l. A sewing machine including in combination a work support, stitchforming mechanism, and a trimming mechanism, said trimming mechanismincluding a movable trimming blade mounted beneath the work support andprojecting above and overhanging said Work support, said overhangingportion of said trimming blade having a piercing point, means for movingthe trimming blade forward and backward and for reciprocating saidtrimming blade across the plane of the work support to cut the fabric,means for moving the ercing point of the trimming blade beneat i thesurface of the work sup ort for rendering the trimming blade ineffectiveand for raising said piercing point above the surface of the worksupport whereby the saine is caused to engage the under face of thefabric und penetrate the same and thereby resume its cutting action.

12. A sewing machine including in combination a. work support, feedingmechanism and a trimming mechanism, said trimming mechanism including astationary trimming member having its upper face substantially flushwith the work support,'a movable trimming member projecting above andoverhanging said work support, said overhanging portion having apiercing point, means for moving said movable trimming member to cut thefabric comprisingan eccentric, a yoke operated by said eccentric, and anadjustable connection between the yoke and said trimming member wherebythe piercing point may be moved beneath the surface of the work supportfor rendering 'the trimming 'mechanism ineffective, or raised above thesurface of the work support whereby said piercing point will engage theunder vface of the fabric and penetrate the same and thereby resume itscutting action.

13. A trimming mechanism for sewing machines including in combination astaitionary cutting member, a movable cutting member coperatingtherewith. means for moving said movable member to cut the fabric,comprising an eccentric, a yoke operated by said eccentric, a forkedmember carried by said volte, a pin resting within said forked member, ashaft on which said pin is eccentrically mounted. and means connectedwith said movable cutting men'iber for supporting said shaft, and meansfor shifting the shaft so that the movable cutting meiuber is broughtbelow the stationary cutting member. whereby the. cutting action of saidcutting member may be rendered effective or ineffective.

1 4. A trimming mechanism for sewing machines including in combination astationary cutting ineniber, a movable cutting meinber cooperatingtherewith, means for moving said movable member to cut the fabric,comprising an eccentric, a yoke operated by said eccentric, a forkedmember carried by said yoke, a pin resting within said forked member, ashaft on which said pin is eccen- 15. A trimming mechanism for sewing`machines including in combination a stationary member and a movablemember, means for moving said movable member forward and backward, Aandmeans for reciprocating the same across the plane of the Work support,said last named means including a shaft, a pinr eccentrically carriedthereby, and a hand lever for oscillating said. shaft whereby theposition of the cutting member relative to the Work support may bechanged; substantially as described.

1(3A trimming mechanismincluding in combination a stationary member anda movable member, means for moving said movable member forward andbackward, and means for reciprocating the same across the plane of thework support, said last named means including a shaft, a'pin,eccentrically carried thereby, and a hand lever for oscillating saidshaft, whereby the position of thefcutting member relative to the Worksupport may be changed, and means for holding said shaft inpredetermined adjusted positions, substantially as described.

' 17. A sewing machine including in combination a work support, lstitchforming mechanism, a trimming mechanism including cutting memberslocated in advance of the stitching mechanism comprising a stationarycutting blade, means for adjustably supporting the same, and a movablecutting blade,

a bar to which said movable cutting blade is adjustably connected, meansfor oscillating said bar whereby the movable blade -is caused to severthe fabric, said last named means including a yoke, an eccentric foroperating said yoke, a pin connected to said yoke,.a

shaft on which said pin is eccentrically mounted, a hand lever foroperating said shaft, and means for holding said .shaft in predeterminedpositions, substantially as described.` v

18. A trimming mechanism including in combination, a Work support, atrimming bla de having a piercing point and a cutting edge inrear-thereof, said piercing point and cutting edge being so disposed asto penetrate and out one of two superposed layers of fabric, andl meansoperative to rendersaid trimming blade eiective when the material liesacross the normal path of reciprocation or' the blade in its eftectivepositiom'said blade operating to penetrate'the material and commence itscutting action. 19; A trimming mechanism including yin combination awork support, a trimming bladehaving a piercing point and a cutting edgein rear thereof, said piercing point and cuttingcdge beingso disposed asto pene.- trate and out one of two superposed layers of fabric, andmeans operative to render said trin'nningl blade effective when ltheln'oaterial is above the blade, said yblade operating to penetrate thematerial and .commence its cutting action.

In testimony whereof l aiHX my signature, in presence of two Witnesses.GEORGE vSCOTTI.. Witnesses: @Heeren MCNEIL,

-WILLIAM P. Hoven.

